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Posted: 2021/6/14 Mandy Chen
What do I need to know if I want to explore the "secret spots"? What are the hidden dangers?
If you are tired of surfing at the crowded beach and want to explore the less known beaches, there are a few things to know before jumping in your car with a surfboard.
Our instinct to fear the unknown water is a smart default setting that our human program does to keep us alive. Although no one likes the crowds, the popular spots do have its perks---Besides established facilities, they have been tested by many surfers in various conditions, so there's more information about what to expect, and also more likely you will have people around to help in case of an emergency.
Map of Taiwan Surf Spots by local Taiwanese surfers. You can get a copy HERE
On the other hand, there are 166 surf spots recorded in Taiwan, and so many waves are not being surfed by anyone. If we have more surfers distributed to different spots, everyone will get more waves, and it will be a win for all the surfers.
That being said, the purpose of this article is not to encourage everyone to explore "secret surf spots", but to share the learning from surfers who regularly explore new spots, and hope this will help people who are considering exploring make evaluation with more information before jumping in the car.
That being said, the purpose of this article is not to encourage everyone to explore "secret surf spots", but to share the learning from surfers who regularly explore new spots, and hope this will help people who are considering exploring make evaluation with more information before jumping in the car.
What are the hidden dangers of going to an unknown surf spot?
The ocean is so enchanting, but never forget it is also unforgiving. When you get into trouble in the mountains, you have time and better chance of survival; but when you are in the ocean, you may have just seconds to catch your next breath.
The biggest obvious difference when going to a less known spot is you are on your own. There are likely no other people around to come for rescue.
Here are a few hidden dangers:
Rip Currents
With little information, you need to read the ocean for yourself and know how to get out of tricky situations.Shore-break
Note that this could change with tide.Hidden Rocks and Corals
High tide may hide the rocks, while low tide may surface them. With little information, you must be able to read the water and spot where hidden rocks might be. You need to test the depth of the water before taking wipe-outs, and if you are very unlucky that your leash gets caught by the coral, you need to remain calm and get out of it quickly.Contaminated Water
Untreated sewage from farms, slaughterhouse and factories are more common in less known spots. High levels of bacteria and other chemicals in the water can cause eye irritation and gastrointestinal illnesses.Marine Creatures Like Jellyfish
You may be the first one in a long while to jump in the jellyfish-infested water. I have encountered a huge jellyfish once at a less known spot for example. There are fortunately (and unfortunately) not many sharks around beaches in Taiwan. An Aussie surfer once told me Taiwan doesn't have shark hazard because they have all been eaten. I was in disbelief because I thought it was a dated stereotype, but then I saw bags of dried shark fins at Dihua Street (迪化街) :'( I felt devastated.
There are other rare hazards like toxic algae bloom or massive foam wave that have occurred in different parts of the world. The point is there's a risk to encounter something that wouldn't normally be a problem at popular beaches.
Advice for What to Do
Research
Gather info about the spot (more info on Taiwan Surf Spots), read forecasts, check out the geographical position and terrain on GoogleMaps...etc.Ask the locals
Chat with the local surfers or fishermen can be surprisingly helpful. If there's a local surf shop, buy a beer or wax from them is also a good way to start a conversation and contribute to the local business.Keep calm and don't panic
If you get caught up in an unexpected situation, your best bet is to stay calm so you buy yourself more time to figure things out. Because we consume oxygen way faster when we panic, so make it a habit to remind yourself to relax.
The Shallows (2016) This movie is about a surfer going solo to a remote surf spot. The plot is clearly over-dramatic, but the narrator in the trailer is pretty spot-on about exploring the unknown.
What do I need if I want to explore less known surf spots?
The exciting feeling of adventure when you explore a new spot is unparalleled. But it can easily turn into a nightmare without sufficient knowledge and experience.
Basically, you must have the knowledge and capability to guarantee your own safety, be self-reliant, and be ok with whatever consequences that may come with it.
Basically, you must have the knowledge and capability to guarantee your own safety, be self-reliant, and be ok with whatever consequences that may come with it.
For the knowledge and capability part, you should be confident in ALL of the following:
1. You are an experienced surfer, and you are in good shape
There are already a lot of variables to pay attention to, so you should have the experience in handling different situations in surfing. Also, you should be fit enough in case you need to paddle for a couple of hours / kilometers to a safe point.
There are already a lot of variables to pay attention to, so you should have the experience in handling different situations in surfing. Also, you should be fit enough in case you need to paddle for a couple of hours / kilometers to a safe point.
2. You understand meteorology
You can judge the conditions from wind, swell, tide and how they interact with the local terrain. You should be able to read forecasts like Windy, for example.
You can judge the conditions from wind, swell, tide and how they interact with the local terrain. You should be able to read forecasts like Windy, for example.
3. You can read the ocean well
You are able to tell the tide, current and bathymetry by looking at shore and at sea, knowing when/where is safe to go or to avoid.
You are able to tell the tide, current and bathymetry by looking at shore and at sea, knowing when/where is safe to go or to avoid.
4. You know what to do in case of an emergency
Shit happens to even the best of us. You need to be able to save yourself when that happens. And I have a personal rule of thumb to prevent getting caught up in an emergency: if in doubt, don't go. There are always waves, but we only have one life. There are many ways to die or get injured, try not to do it on something not worth it.
Shit happens to even the best of us. You need to be able to save yourself when that happens. And I have a personal rule of thumb to prevent getting caught up in an emergency: if in doubt, don't go. There are always waves, but we only have one life. There are many ways to die or get injured, try not to do it on something not worth it.
If you feel confident in all of these points, and you are fine to take calculated risks with the potential consequences, congratulations you have a whole new chapter of adventure ahead of you! If not, don't worry about it! It's still cool to learn the knowledge and increase your capability, which will still up your surf game!
If you feel confident in all of these points, and you are fine to take calculated risks with the potential consequences, congratulations you have a whole new chapter of adventure ahead of you! If not, don't worry about it! It's still cool to learn the knowledge and increase your capability, which will still up your surf game!
How to up your surf game?
There are a lot of information online. For example, Youtuber the Surf Rat explains the fundamentals very well.
There are a lot of information online. For example, Youtuber the Surf Rat explains the fundamentals very well.
If you are very lucky to have a friend who knows this stuff, pay attention to how they make judgments. Don't be afraid to ask questions that may feel stupid. They are not. You'd be surprised how many surfers actually just follow hear-says. And If you don't already know someone, going to a good surf shop is also a way to connect with knowledgable surfers.
Start learning from any or all of the above, and form your own hypothesis every time you go and verify them. Try to go with someone knowledgeable, and check out several surf spots along the coast on your next surf trip to see the difference for yourself. It may seem like it's taking up the fun time, but you will learn something like how the wind, swell, bathymetry and terrain interacting with each other in real world. I have once seen many surfers gathered at a spot which was very windy that day, and just 5mins down the road, on the other side of the hill at a less known spot, we arrived at a wind sheltered spot with glassy waves and less people.
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